Parchment paper is a useful kitchen tool

Even a well-stocked kitchen is likely to be missing a few useful tools. For many years, parchment paper was a no-show in my own kitchen. It seemed overly fussy, one of those niche items that was unnecessary when there always was an ample supply of aluminum foil and good old wax paper available.

It took an all-day holiday baking session to make a convert out of me. Making several hundred cookies wasn’t daunting, but the prospect of cleaning the cookie sheets a few dozen times was. Lining the cookie sheets with baking parchment saved an immense amount of cleanup time, but the big surprise was how much it improved the cookies. They baked more evenly, held their shapes better and crisp cookies came out with perfectly crispy bottoms and edges.

After that revelation about parchment paper, I was on a mission to see what else parchment paper could do. The first step was to find out what it actually was. French cooks have used parchment paper in cooking for several hundred years, originally by brushing oil onto paper to make it more water-resistant.

The next iteration, wax paper, was invented by Thomas Edison, and while it improved on paper’s ability to repel water, the wax made it unsuitable for cooking. The wax melts at oven temperatures, and begins smoking when it reaches 300 degrees. (It can be used to line cake pans or other dishes when it is completely covered by batter or other food, since it won’t get as hot.) Modern parchment paper is coated with a thin layer of silicone, which gives it its nonstick properties.

The French technique of cooking with parchment, called en papillote, involves sealing ingredients, most often fish or chicken, in paper folded envelope-style. The sealed package steams the food, allowing it to cook without oil or butter. In addition to being an excellent way to cook low-fat main dishes, the steaming pulls the flavors of herbs and other seasonings into the meat.

Making the packages for cooking en papillote isn’t difficult: tear off a 15-inch (or longer, depending on the size of fish fillets or chicken breasts) piece of parchment from the roll, fold in half, and place ingredients near the fold. Starting at one end, roll the edges ever tightly all the way around, or fold over twice and secure with twine. Place packets on a cookie sheet to bake.

Part of the fun of cooking in parchment packets is serving them, because who doesn’t like opening packages? The parchment technique isn’t limited to classic French recipes: catfish and tomatillos cook well in packets, as do Cajun-spiced dishes. Fish fillets especially benefit from the technique, because it eliminates handling the delicate pieces that so easily fall apart.

Parchment paper is available at grocery stores in rolls similar to wax paper and aluminum foil, and an unbleached variety often is sold at natural-foods stores. Pre-cut sheets sized for baking pans also are sold at cookware and restaurant-supply stores.

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Catfish With Tomatillo Salsa In Packets

1 to 1 1/4 pounds catfish, cut into 4 portions, or 4 tilapia fillets (4-5 ounces each)

3/4 teaspoon ground cumin

3/4 teaspoon salt, divided

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper

1 pound tomatillos, husks removed, coarsely chopped

1 medium onion, finely chopped

1 jalapeño, or serrano pepper, minced

2 cloves garlic, minced

1/3 cup chopped fresh cilantro

Juice of 1 lime

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper (optional)

Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

To prepare packets, start with four 20- to 24-inch-long pieces of parchment paper or foil. Fold in half crosswise.

Season fish with cumin, 1/2 teaspoon salt and pepper.

Combine tomatillos, onion, chile pepper, garlic and cilantro in a large bowl.

Stir in lime juice, oil, the remaining 1/4 teaspoon salt and cayenne to taste (if using).

Place one portion of fish on one side of each sheet fairly close to the crease and leaving at least a 1-inch border around the edges for folding.

Place one-fourth of the salsa (about 1 cup) on top of each fish portion.

Close the packet to cover the ingredients. Starting at the top, seal the packet by folding the edges together in a series of small, tight folds. Twist the tip of the packet and tuck it underneath to help keep the packet closed.

Place the packets on a large rimmed baking sheet (packets may overlap slightly). Bake until the fish is opaque in the center, about 20 minutes.

Carefully open one package to check for doneness; be cautious of the steam. Let packets rest unopened for 5 minutes before serving.

— Recipe courtesy of Eating Well magazine

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Balsamic Almonds

2 cups lightly toasted almonds

1/2 cup firmly packed brown sugar

2/3 cup balsamic vinegar

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon chilli powder or cayenne pepper (optional)

Line a baking tray with baking parchment.

Place the almonds, brown sugar and vinegar in large heavy bottomed frying pan. Cook over medium heat for 3-5 minutes, until sugar melts, almonds are well coated and there is no liquid in the bottom of the pan. If using chilli powder or cayenne pepper, sprinkle evenly.

Transfer almonds to prepared tray, separating individual nuts. Set aside to cool before serving.

— Recipe from the Almond Board of Australia

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Coffe-toffee Cookies

2 1/2 cups flour

1/2 cup cocoa

1 teaspoon baking soda

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 cup (2 sticks) butter, softened

1 cup packed brown sugar

1/2 cup granulated sugar

2 tablespoons instant coffee

2 tablespoon milk

2 eggs

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

1 package (8 ounces) toffee bits, divided

1 cup semisweet chocolate chunks

1/2 cup sliced almonds, toasted

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line two cookie sheets with parchment paper; set aside.

On another sheet of parchment paper, combine flour, cocoa, baking soda and salt; set aside.

Beat butter, brown sugar and granulated sugar together in a large bowl, on medium speed of an electric mixer, until light and fluffy. Dissolve instant coffee in milk. Beat in coffee mixture, eggs and vanilla until well blended.

Add flour mixture gradually to creamed mixture; beat on low speed just until blended. Reserve 3/4 cup toffee bits; stir remaining toffee bits into dough.

Drop by heaping tablespoons about 2 inches apart onto parchment-lined cookie sheets. Combine chocolate chunks, almonds and reserved toffee bits; set aside.

Bake 4 minutes (cookies still will be wet on top.) Remove from oven; press cookie flat with the back of the measuring spoon. Sprinkle 1/2 heaping tablespoon almond-toffee mixture onto each cookie. Using the back of the measuring spoon again, lightly press topping into dough to form a larger round cookie.

Continue baking 8 to 9 minutes longer or until cookies are set. Do not over bake.

Slide parchment with cookies onto a wire rack to cool. Serves 30.

— Recipe courtesy of Reynolds Kitchens